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In the lunar month of August, the sky above Xian was gray and the temperature had not yet started to cool for the autumn. Clouds and mist were settling in and, as expected, around the time of our departure in the early afternoon, it began to drizzle.
Risking dangers to walk the
long journey; a lonely journey accompanied only by a
long staff.
We stand on the verdant land
of the outskirts of Xi'an, gazing at a statue depicting
a caravan of traders traveling on the Silk Road. The
Tang Dynasty Kai Yuan Gate once stood at this site,
which represents the Eastern departure point for travelers
on the Silk Road. Even today, people traveling westward
from Xian must pass this place.
The sculpture expresses the richness
of the "Silk Road". Ever since Emperor Wu of the Han
dynasty sent Zhang Qian to the western regions of China
and beyond, exchanges between China and the western
world have increased continuously. From the distant
western regions and the Middle East, over icy mountains,
vast deserts and hazardous winding roads, countless
foreigners traveled to Changan, China, and Han people
journeyed to foreign lands.
For over 2000 years, countless
numbers of valiant, fiery-spirited businessmen, monks,
government officials, and soldiers uprooted themselves
to start on their journey west from the land now under
our feet. Among them was Master Hsuan Tsang who took
advantage of local turmoil and fled the city of Changan
along with many refugees.
In August of the year 627, the
areas around Changan, Guandong, Henan, Longyou, and
the surrounding states suffered from severe hail-storms
which destroyed all crops, subjecting the population
to severe famine. The government, unable to provide
adequate relief, instructed people to fend for themselves
and migrate in search of food. Taking advantage of the
chaos, Master Hsuan Tsang packed his bags and started
off on a solitary long journey. He planned to journey
west to India in search of Buddhist scriptures.
At
this time, the Tang Dynasty had just been established,
and had not yet realized effective unification or control
of all of China. The northern and western borders still
suffered frequent attacks from invading East Turkic
hordes surging out of the deserts. Therefore, the Tang
Empire severely restricted the departure of its citizens
from the borders of the empire. Anyone needing to cross
the border had to have formal government permission
as indicated by written forms similar to today's passport
and visa.
Unfortunately, Hsuan Tsang's
application to travel was denied by the government.
Under the circumstances, other monks who were planning
to travel with Hsuan Tsang withdrew from the travel
plan. Hsuan Tsang was the only one who still insisted
on traveling and was determined to reach the remote
west, India, to obtain Buddhist scriptures.
At the time, Buddhism in China
was divided into many different sects. The top masters
of each sect adhered to their own views about the Buddha's
teaching in the available scriptures. Hsuan Tsang had
devoted over 10 years of his life to thoroughly studying
the available Buddhist texts. The discrepancies and
disputes between sects caused him to imagine traveling
to India, the birthplace of Buddhism, to obtain the
original scriptures. With these, the principles in them
could be identified and disputes between sects could
be reconciled. Thus, he started his lonely journey west.
Standing at a western corner of this thousand-year old
capital city in the rain, where numbers of tall buildings
now stand and automobiles are speeding on the streets,
we seem to feel the air from the Tang Dynasty mixing
with the rain blowing in our faces. Reality and visions
of history become intertwined, confusing one's senses.
We must continue our journey, drawing inspiration from
Hsuan Tsang's determination to cross borders secretly
in search of scriptures. At the moment of starting his
journey, he must have had mixed feelings, but nevertheless
he persevered. With the transition from summer to fall,
leaves changed color, frost settled onto the land, and
Hsuan Tsang proceeded on his trip at full speed without
regard to rain or shine.
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